Taste in Transit: The Global Evolution of the Bánh Mì

The Taste in Transit series explores food that evolves and thrives beyond its original borders.

Packed with savoury ingredients and condiments nestled into a flawlessly soft, crackling baguette, the Vietnamese sandwich bánh mì is a symphony of tastes and textures.

Though the words bánh mì mean ‘bread’ in Vietnamese, they have evolved to evoke something far more iconic – a street food institution beloved across the country and around the world. Bánh mì was born during the French colonial era in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when the French introduced baguettes to Vietnam. Over the decades, Vietnamese cooks transformed the baguette and infused it with local spirit, pairing it with ingredients such as pickled and fresh vegetables, tender herbs, fresh chillies or chili sauces, meats and pâtés.

While French-style baguettes were often reserved for the wealthy (the high cost of imported wheat was to blame), Vietnamese bakers began to experiment with rice flour, yielding a fluffier—and more affordable—baguette. As such, the masses could finally enjoy the bánh mì, which was quickly becoming a well-loved street food.

A product of colonial history that is forging a new path, it’s a sandwich that has stood the test of time. Crispy and golden with a soft centre and packed with everything from tofu and tuna to 12-hour braised beef, here are some tasty spins on the classic bánh mì, and where to find them.

Duc Huong Sandwiches, San Jose

San Jose has the largest Vietnamese population outside Vietnam, ensuring authenticity and quality. Duc Huong Sandwiches, also a bakery, features 17 bánh mì varieties—from the traditional (pork loaf, shredded pork skin, pork floss) to California-inspired options like grilled chicken with avocado, or tuna. Those in the know love their juicy, tender grilled pork, packed with crunchy, bright pickled veggies to cut through the richness of the meat, on a pillowy house-made Vietnamese baguette. Level up and order a bánh mì on buttery, crusty garlic bread with an extra schmear of velvety pork pâté.

Co Thanh, Hong Kong

The late Nguyễn Thị Thanh—also known as The Lunch Lady—gained a cult following after Anthony Bourdain experienced her food in Vietnam. She later taught her recipes to the chefs at Co Thanh, where today, most ingredients are hand-selected to ensure spot-on flavours and textures. Options range from tender grilled beef rolled in betel leaf with pâté, mayo, and pickled veggies to five different types of pork charcuterie. Simmered for 12 hours, their beef shank stew is scented with lemongrass, star anise, and cinnamon—hauntingly tender and perfectly paired with crunchy vegetables, fresh herbs, and a crispy baguette.

Dong Phuong Bakery, New Orleans

After settling in New Orleans post-Vietnam War, founders De and Huong Tran set out to recreate timeless dishes from back home, starting with bánh mì. They perfected their baguettes and now wholesale to over 100 restaurants and grocers across the city, where po’boys reign as a local staple. Their fame skyrocketed after earning the James Beard American Classic Award for longevity and timeless appeal. With Vietnamese sausage, toasted shrimp patty, Impossible bulgogi, and grilled pork on the menu, the options are plentiful. They also offer mix-and-match boxes of six mini bánh mì on 7″ pistolettes. Seasonally, they offer mooncakes and colourful Mardi Gras king cakes, with flavours like durian, coconut, and pecan, all topped with cream cheese frosting.

Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa, Ho Chi Minh City

This legendary spot is seen as the gold standard for traditional bánh mì in Vietnam. In a city where food lovers can get this local dish at every turn, Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoam, which has been on the scene for 35 years, is known for its epic sandwiches—and long lines. Here, they load crispy baguettes with an impressive, jam-packed selection of cold cuts and cured meats. However, the “most famous bakery in Saigon” might be best known for the sheer quantity of its fillings. Each sandwich is stuffed with many layers of meats, including Vietnamese ham, pork floss and roasted pork. It’s all tied together by a generous schmear of velvety-rich homemade pâté and butter.

Mot To, Calgary

Here, bánh mì options range from satay beef and lemongrass chicken to tofu, grilled pork and pork belly. But, what’s special about Mot To are the unexpected touches. The usual suspects are popular, but originals like the golden soft-shell crab sandwich and the pho grilled cheese are the real headline. And like with any iconic sandwich, a dip goes a long way. They’re both served with a side of piping hot pho broth—perfectly tempering the crunch of the bread. Sarah Leung, who runs the business with her chef/husband Long Thai, calls the bánh mì iconic. “At Mot To, we cook like we’re cooking for our family,” says Leung. “Our house-made mayo, marinades, and pickled veggies are all made from scratch. We love keeping the soul of the classic bánh mì while adding fun twists, like rich pork belly, for something familiar yet exciting.”