Mumbai Masa: How Otra Is Redefining Tacos in India

Otra is redefining tacos through vertical integration in what’s become a culinary crossroads story.

Mexican taqueria is not what comes to mind for most when visiting Mumbai. However, foodies in the know will flock to Otra to get their hands on chef Alex Sanchez’s homemade masa tortilla tacos. Think lacquered and charred eggplant paired with a herbaceous cabbage slaw, tempura-fried “buffalo wing” cauliflower with poblano ranch sauce, or confit mushrooms in a punchy arbol chilli salsa, all paired with sneakily strong mezcal-forward libations.

The magic is in the masa. The Spanish word for “dough,” masa is made from ground corn that has been softened by soaking in alkali. Used in Latin American and Mexican cuisine as the foundation for tortillas, tamales, gorditas and nachos, Otra produces their own masa not just for authenticity and sustainability, but out of sheer necessity. At the helm is chef Sanchez, who is on a mission to bring the authentic flavours of his Californian childhood specifically the humble taco to a new generation of diners in India, and with a model of vertical integration that is as innovative as it is essential.

A San Francisco native, Sanchez’s identity as a chef and restaurateur was shaped by his mixed Puerto Rican Jewish heritage. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in 2004, he worked at Michelin-starred venues including Michael Mina and Eleven Madison Park before being lured to India in 2010 to open The Table. This pioneering fine-dining establishment in Mumbai became recognized as the first to serve fine Californian cuisine, and Sanchez quickly carved out a niche for himself.

After seven years at The Table, Sanchez and his wife, Mallyeka Watsa graduate of École Ferrandi culinary institute in Paris and granddaughter of famed cookbook author and bon vivant hostess Premila La co-founded Americano in March 2019, the duo’s first foray into restaurant ownership.

“Americano is my not-so-traditional love letter to Italy,” says Sanchez. Within the few short years since its opening, the popular bistro and bar became one of India’s most sought-after dining destinations and was ranked among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, but Sanchez’s culinary identity was not complete.

“Over the last 15 years as an expat chef in India, I became known for my ingredient-driven European fare. But I knew there was always another side of me I wanted to share with India’s dining community. That’s where the idea for Otra stemmed from.”

Influenced by the bistro-style, chef-driven restaurants he had experienced in Mexico City on a trip with Watsa, he decided to open a full-service gastro-cantina as opposed to “just a traditional taqueria.” During the pandemic, Sanchez and Watsa trialled a taqueria delivery pop-up that borrowed the Americano name, which allowed Sanchez to tinker with masa recipes he’d been working on since 2011. From that, he saw that customers were enthusiastic about Latin American flavours a cuisine style that, until that point, had not done so well in Mumbai.

“There are many similarities between Indian and Mexican food, but that’s also why it’s been hard for the cuisine to find a foothold in India,” says Aatish Nath, an independent journalist based in Mumbai. “When a Mexican salsa tastes similar to an Indian kachumbar [a finely chopped salad], chances are that the kitchen brigade will send out the latter, as that’s what they’re used to tasting. However, with Otra, people were more familiar with Sanchez’s cooking style, which made them open to a cuisine [Mexican] they aren’t as familiar with.”

The inception of Otra in May 2024 as a neighbourhood, intimate restaurant was a confluence of nostalgia and necessity. “Meaning ‘other’ or ‘another’ in Spanish, Otra is a tribute to my Hispanic lineage, the missing puzzle piece of my sense of self,” remarks Sanchez. Rather than stuffy white tablecloths and gloved waiters, the concept is approachable, affordable, yet still elevated.

Meaning ‘other’ or ‘another’ in Spanish, Otra is a tribute to my Hispanic lineage, the missing puzzle piece of my sense of self.

In a country with restrictive import laws, Sanchez realised that he needed to control every aspect of the supply chain to provide a genuine taco within India’s borders. In 2021, he met Anushka Neyol, a seventh-generation farmer and owner of Three One Farms in Ludhiana, Punjab who could cultivate a traceable heirloom species of corn from which the perfect masa for tortillas the soul of any taco could be ground. “It took us years of research, trials, and testing over 50 varietals, but we finally found the right one,” says Neyol.

Working with a Punjab seed farmer, Sanchez received a call in late 2023 that a few thousand kilos of corn had been grown with his name on it. “We signed the restaurant lease that same day,” he muses. “From that corn, Otra was born.”

Otra went on to become the first taqueria outside of Mexico to not only grind corn into masa but also grow the corn itself. From seed to harvest to processing to plate, this level of vertical integration was not just about food; it was a commitment to sustainability and community. It enhanced the legitimacy of the native cuisine while fostering deeper connections between the food served and the community that supports it. Without masa, there would be no Otra.

“This is the exciting thing about India,” says Sanchez. “Because we don’t have access to imported produce due to the strict laws, we have to do everything ourselves and entirely from scratch. But, by doing so, we learn and appreciate the process so much more.”

The potential for masa surpasses tortillas: from crispy tostadas to chochoyotes. Even leftover masa is infused to make a nixtamalised corn liqueur for the house specialty margarita, the Una Mas. Otra now uses more than 100 kilos of corn a month. “For me, making fresh corn tortillas is a sophisticated process, and I felt strongly that it should be the crux of our restaurant,” says Sanchez.

The corn species selected for Otra was chosen for its buttery aroma and pliant texture owed to Otra’s custom-made molino a lava-stone grinding machine built by Los Angeles-based Guillermo Campbell, a master artisan with 50 years of craftsmanship under his belt.

Otra’s tacos are neither definitively authentic nor fusion, according to Sanchez, whose priority was to create a dining experience that resonated with the local community. “Over 50 per cent of our menu is vegetarian, tailored to the sensibilities of the Indian palate. We utilise local produce, herbs and spices to create a menu that feels familiar yet novel.”

Beyond corn, Otra has since vertically integrated its supply chain for other menu items. “From tomatillos for salsa verde grown an hour south of Mysore to habanero, serrano and other chillis picked near Aurangabad, we are working directly with farmers who are growing these ingredients specifically for us,” says Watsa.

Today, Otra acts as a cultural bridge between The Americas and India. More than merely serving tacos, Sanchez is building a community of diners who are interested in learning about cultures and connection as much as they are in tasting new flavours. His trajectory from San Francisco to Mumbai is marked by a desire to connect cultures through the pure love of food, and in this case, the taco has become a symbol of authenticity, sustainability and cultural exchange.

“At the end of the day, a taco is democratic. It’s for everyone, regardless of who you are. It’s about bringing people together. And that’s exactly what we want to put on the plate.”